The Wave Tour

Experiencing The Wave, Arizona

Surrounded by vast deserts, brilliant sandstone cliffs, enchanting slot canyons and majestic Ponderosa pine forests, how did one stone formation that’s just an acre or two in size become so iconic? Visitors to this area of the Southwest can explore two expansive national monuments, two national forests, several national parks and seemingly endless BLM land. Yet, in 2018, 200,589 people vied for just 7,300 permits issued to enter North Coyote Buttes to view the Wave. Only 20 people per day are allowed entry to North Coyote Buttes, where the Wave is situated, to protect the delicate sandstone in this designated wilderness area, and also to ensure a high-quality experience for those who make the 3-mile trek each way out to what is actually a fairly small formation. Learn all about how to get a Wave permit and how we can help you get permits on our permits page.

Just 3.6% of applicants were awarded a permit in 2018. Thousands of visitors have sacrificed valuable vacation time to enter a permit lottery at the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument Visitor Center in Kanab, usually with low chances of actually winning a permit. Why?

There is just something mesmerizing about this incredible piece of sandstone – the smooth, flowing shape and striking red and yellow stripes that people find intrinsically beautiful. Like a brilliant rainbow or an ocean sunset, every human grasps the allure. Limiting entry to 20 people per day allows a quiet, high quality outdoor experience where each visitor can truly take in the natural wonder, escape the every-growing crowds of nearby national parks, and start to ponder life’s deeper questions.

There is another, less significant and less romantic reason some people are drawn to the Wave. Limited entry increases demand for highly-sought permits. One guide calls this the “Cabbage Patch Doll Phenomenon,” in which some people want something simply because it’s hard to get. Please don’t let this be your sole motivation for seeking permits. Be curious about the geology and captivated by the beauty and the wonder of the natural world. Go ahead and take photos, take a selfie even. But allow time for quiet contemplation, too. There is so much more here than Instagram photos and bragging rights about being a lucky Wave permit winner. Online fame is insignificant compared to the actual experience of just being in the wilderness, appreciating what so many generations past have also admired, and asking how do you fit into this creation? And while the Wave really is special, you can enjoy a true, significant wilderness experience in many other places in the Southwest.

The Wave, Arizona, a Geologic Wonder

The Wave got its start in the early Jurassic period about 190 million years ago when Northern Arizona was much closer to the equator than it is today and a huge, wind-swept dune field comprised the landscape. This Navajo sandstone formation has two troughs that were first carved into the sand by running water. Wind has continued the erosional process.

The cross-bedded sandstone reveals the wind direction 190 million years ago as sand stacked up layer upon layer and sand dunes were slowly blown across the landscape. Groundwater soaked through the sandstone, carrying various minerals such as iron oxide, manganese and hematite. These minerals cemented the individual grains of sand together and gave them their brilliant color. Differential erosion leaves some layers – the harder layers – of stone sticking out farther than others. The masterpiece known as the Wave is the result of blowing wind and seeping water millions of years in the making.

A history of the Wave’s fame, a rise in celebrity

The Wave in Arizona remained largely unknown except by a few cowboys and southern Utah locals until the 1980s. In the ‘80s, more people began to discover The Wave, but they only shared the secret with others whom they could trust not to publicize the magnificent feature. In the late ‘80s, a permit system was put into place which would issue free permits to 8 visitors per day with no more than 4 in a group. This occurred after the Paria Canyon Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness Area was designated by Congress as part of a larger wilderness bill in 1984. In the 1990s, a European film crew illegally produced a video of the area, increasing interest among foreign visitors, and several guide books also began to publish information about the Wave. In 1997, there was a sudden need to manage the area and the Bureau of Land Management instituted a $5 per permit fee with the 8-person per day limit intact. A website was developed that allowed hikers to obtain permits up to a year in advance. Four permits for each day were awarded online and 4 were given away in person on a first-come, first-served basis. In 1998, now that this was a special management area, a map outlining North and South Coyote Buttes was created. In 1999, a Salt Lake City television crew created, with permission, produced a news clip about the Wave. An overwhelming public response caused the permit website to crash. In 2002, the number of in-person permits was increased to 10 to accommodate some extra visitors who were in Utah for the 2002 Winter Olympic Games. This increase was supposed to be rescinded, but it never was. In 2003, the BLM started handing out flyers with pictures of the route to permit holders because hikers were getting lost. Complaints about no marked trails among those not accustomed to hiking in wilderness areas were becoming common. Notoriety of the Coyote Buttes areas kept increasing, with websites giving names to many features near the Wave, and increased visitation to South Coyote Buttes. It was during this time that White Pocket, another area on the Paria Plateau in Arizona that did not require permits, started gaining attention also. Microsoft released its operating system, Windows 7, in 2007, which included a default desktop photo of the Wave and now the world wanted to see this iconic rock. Also in 2007, the current online lottery system was initiated in which potential Wave hikers can apply online four months in advance for 10 permits awarded for each date. The in-person lottery was moved from the Paria Contact Station to the BLM visitor center in Kanab, Utah, where more space could accommodate larger crowds. Recent lotteries have drawn as many as 395 participants. Currently, the BLM is considering increasing the number of permits issued to as many as 96 per day. This could usher in an end to the wilderness experience entirely.

Don’t hike to the Wave without a permit

People who sneak into the Wave without permits suck. That’s what we think. The 20-person per day limit is in place for good reason. Bootleggers just make it more crowded and spoil the experience for the good people who follow the rules. Also, the trailhead and North Coyote Buttes are often patrolled by rangers who will check for your permits. We get checked about half the time we go to the Wave, Arizona. Don’t want a trespassing charge on your criminal record? Get a permit or hike somewhere else.

Is the hike to the Wave as hard as everyone says it is?

The round-trip hike is just under 6 miles (9.5 kilometers) if you take the most direct route to the Wave and back. Our tours typically cover about 8 miles so we can visit other spectacular sites.

Fit, experienced hikers would probably consider this a hike of moderate difficulty. There are long stretches of deep sand to trudge through and an elevation gain of about 500 feet on the trek. There are a few steep inclines, loose footing, and often you will be hiking on uneven sandstone with one foot higher than the other while you hug the side of a steep sandstone ridge. Folks with knee injuries may find the uneven footing and loose sand particularly challenging. Guests who live at sea level feel less energetic during the 5,000-foot elevation hike. Decent cardio fitness, leg strength, some amount of endurance and good balance are needed.

Wind and harsh weather are other factors to consider. This is a particularly windy spot that makes the winter chill even colder. Ice and snow make the uneven hike quite slippery. Falls are common, even among the sure footed when it’s slippery. Summer heat really packs a punch. The sun is relentless, heating the ground until the radiant heat rises from the earth while the sun shines from above. There is little shade. Start hiking at dawn in the summer.

This is by no means the most challenging hike in the desert Southwest, but we see a lot of Wave visitors who overestimate their ability. Because the Wave has become famous, it attracts all sorts of visitors, not just avid hikers who are used to cross-country travel where there are no signs or marked trails. Stories of rescues in North Coyote Buttes of those who got lost, ran out of water or showed signs of heat stroke are not uncommon. There are rangers and volunteers who patrol the Wave, but they are not there every day. Do not expect help. Also, remember that cell phone service is very spotty. We have heard of at least four hikers who died in North Coyote Buttes. When you obtain permits in person, you will attend a safety briefing and learn all about the hazards of hiking to the Wave. Please listen to the rangers. They are not trying to scare you, they are trying to keep you safe.

How to prepare for a hike where there is no marked trail

If you are not used to route finding and exploring wilderness on you own, you will probably feel more comfortable with a guide. Take the map given to you by the BLM and study it. Trace your route on Google Earth and gain an understanding of the landscape. Download a hiking GPS app for your phone and practice with it ahead of time. Download maps now, you won’t have phone service there. Mark a waypoint for the Wave before you start your trip. Mark your car and waypoints along the way. Don’t rely on this entirely, but it can help you find the shortest route on the way back. While you’re hiking, look up, pay attention, take occasional pictures of the route looking back the way you just came from and think about how you will find your way back. If any of these instructions sound intimidating, do the smart thing and hire a guide.

Because the BLM will give good directions with your permit, we won’t rehash those details here. We will direct you to an excellent Wave website with good directions and lat/long points to help you find the Wave and various points of interest in the area. It’s the best resource for visiting the Wave that we have seen.

Getting to the Wave trailhead

Just about everyone who hikes to the Wave starts at the Wire Pass trailhead, which is on Houserock Valley Road. Here is a fun fact. The Wire Pass trailhead is in Utah in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. But along the route, you will cross into Arizona. The Wave is actually in Arizona, in the Vermilion Cliffs National Monument.

Most of the time, we access House Rock Valley Road from the north, from Highway 89 about half way between Page, Arizona and Kanab, Utah and drive about 8 miles of dirt road to the trailhead. This 8-mile section is usually passable in a normal car, though flat tires on the gravel are more common than on pavement, so check your tools ahead of time, especially if you are driving a rental. (Also keep in mind that off-pavement driving often voids car rental contracts). If the road is wet, driving gets really exciting. The northern stretch of the road is hilly, curvy and we cannot express just how slippery it gets. If the mud is thick, getting stuck is a real risk. On the way to the Wire Pass Trailhead, House Rock Valley Road crosses Buckskin Gulch. Rain many miles to the north can make Buckskin Gulch flow, which makes crossing dangerous to impossible. And you might get stuck in the mud there, too. The good news is, this is the desert and wet weather is uncommon. Avoid the road when there is melting snow, and be careful during the summer monsoon season. The road starts dry, but a storm can make a real mess. Occasionally, when Buckskin flows or the north end of the road is impassable, we will approach the Wire Pass trailhead from the south end of House Rock Valley Road off Highway 89A. But this means you’re driving off pavement for more than 20 miles, and there are still some nasty clay sections that turn to ridiculous mud to contend with going that direction.

At the Wave trailhead

Display your parking pass in your windshield and sign in at the trailhead before heading out. I know you’re excited, but take a second to check your pack to be sure you have what you need. When you’re ready, cross House Rock Valley road and start heading up the wash. You’re on your way.

• A gallon of water
• Plenty of food, especially salty snacks
• Sturdy shoes with good traction and ankle support
• Hat
• Camera
• Rubber tips for your walking poles if you use poles
• First aid kit
• Map
• Permit
• Flashlight or headlamp if there is any chance at all you will be out after dark
• GPS unit of phone with GPS app (know how to use it)

What’s the best time to visit the Wave in Arizona? Is there a season when Wave permits are easier to get?

Spring and fall are the best seasons for hiking here. Read all about local weather before planning your trip. Road conditions can be unpredictable in the winter and when it snows, the trail is slippery, as explained above. In the summer it’s HOT. That being said, your best chances for obtaining permits are usually in the off season, in winter and mid summer. The chances of winning the in-person lottery on given day on average are 11% and chances of winning online are 2%. We have seen the odds as good as 50% on a December day in 2018, as good as 25% in late July. Generally speaking, in the heat of the summer, odds are normally around 1 in 4 of winning in person. In the winter, odds are typically somewhere around 1 in 3. In the spring and fall, odds are 1 in 10 or worse.

When is the best time to photograph the Wave?

We have seen spectacular shots of the Wave at sunrise, sunset and even in the dark of night with a starry sky overhead. Generally, though, mid day is the best time to photograph the Wave, when the sun is overhead and not casting a shadow. This is for the most common image you see of the Wave, standing above it and looking down into the Wave. A wide angle lens shows this angle best, but it’s not necessary. The feature can also be photographed to the southwest where a narrow slot glows in the refractive light and accentuates the rock’s red color. Fun shots can also be found facing east, were you can include the Wave’s texture and stripes with an incredible view of the Vermilion cliffs, the Cockscomb and the Grand Staircase in the background.

Exploring North Coyote Buttes – there’s more to see than the Wave

The iconic Wave is only one small feature among a stunning sandstone landscape at North Coyote Buttes. Photographers have given whimsical names to many of the features at North Coyote Buttes, and our tours visits several of these spots. We will refer to commonly used names for some of these features, but we ask you do not name new features. Any time a rock or a site gets a name on the internet, it attracts attention and we see increased traffic there. When visiting the Southwest, be creative, there is beauty everywhere you look, not just in places with names.

In fact, the hike to the Wave skirts many gorgeous sandstone buttes to your right that are unnamed. The route we take to the Wave also passes by dinosaur tracks that were left by three-toed dinosaurs in the early Jurassic Period when this area was wind whipped sandy desert. Those ancient dunes are now the incredible rock formations you are hiking on. We also visit Fatali’s Boneyard, a particularly colorful locale made famous by photographer Michael Fatali. Chunks of lace rock have fallen from cliffs above and landed on intensely colorful rock that looks like a neon striped leopard in places. The creepy looking lace rock “bones” lie strewn across the rock, providing endless photographic opportunity. Next, we pass through the sand cove that is also marked by stunning, striped rock. From there, we poke into a brilliant red slot canyon before heading to the Wave. When folks are finished photography the Wave, as time allows, we take the short trek across yellow brain rock to view the cheeseburger rock, or half-a-hamburger, then we spend some time at the Second Wave that is known for its very defined shape and gorgeous pastel colors. There is an easy way to walk to the frontside of the Second Wave. Do not climb over the Second Wave. It is fragile and easily broken, and we have observed hikers climbing up and down the Second Wave, breaking rock under their feet. Skirt the edge of the cliff and go around it.

Step on the edges, break the ledges

A post about the Wave wouldn’t be complete if it didn’t offer some advice on conservation. Concern for damage to sandstone is one of the reasons permits to North Coyote Buttes and South Coyote Buttes are so limited. What took millions of years to form can be damaged instantly with a single footstep. Watch for thin bands of sandstone and avoid walking on these areas, or make sure you place your feet well away from the edge of the bands. People travel from all over the world to admire and photograph the thin, fragile layers of sandstone. The interesting shape and striking color of the Wave has made it recognizable worldwide. That’s why it’s so essential to be careful with sandstone formations. If the rock looks breakable, it is. Don’t test it to see whether you can break it, because you most likely can.

Obviously, follow other leave no trace principles. Pack out all garbage – including organic trash such as orange peels and especially toilet paper. If you have to poop, do it in an out of the way place and bury it good. Or poop in a specially designed bag for human waste. They sell them at the Kanab BLM Visitor Center. Don’t bury T.P. Pack it out. Otherwise, it will become uncovered in the wind to blow around the wilderness area. Also, avoid wading in any potholes. These contain life that can be upset by chemical changes in the water.

Where to stay if you want to visit the Wave

For hotels, vacation rentals and RV parks, the obvious choice of accommodation is in Kanab, Utah, so you will be near the in-person lottery. Page, Arizona is the next closest town to the Wave. There are several camping options that are closer, including the State Line Campground, which is a first-come-first served campground about a mile from the Wave trailhead. Others choose to camp at the White House Campground near the BLM Paria Contact Station. You can also check with the Bureau of Land Management about dispersed camping in the area. Call the Kanab Visitor Center at (435) 644-1300 for information.